take the long way home

My last week in Vietnam has been truly amazing. My meeting with the Forest Protection people in Quang Tri went very well (thanks to the help of a translator), and it seems that the researchers there were interested in a foreign social scientist like me coming and working on the corridor project. The provincial government in Quang Tri is fairly open to conservation programs, and I found out when I returned to Hanoi that the McArthur foundation helped to finance another project in that area. Seems like things are moving in a positive direction!

Back in Hanoi, I finally visited Ho Chi Minh's mausoleum! The most amazing part of the whole experience, besides the amazing 40 degree C heat, was the number of Vietnamese people waiting in line. Sure it was a Saturday, but we had to wait in a line (which was moving at a pretty consistant stroll) for over an hour. Besides the handfulls of tourists, there were thousands upon thousands of Vietnamese there to pay their respects. Nothing like that exists for George Washington! That night I went to one last dinner at Ngat's house, helping to cook and frightening a small child with my foreign-ness.

This week there was a threat of a typhoon coming to Halong Bay and Hanoi, but maybe it went to the Philippines instead...I don't know! My three-day trip to Halong Bay was amazing. Tons of sun, kayaking, and reading made for a perfect end to my crazy stay in Vietnam this summer.

I may have come to Vietnam by myself, but I was rarely alone. The people here are so welcoming and friendly. Since I spent so much time in Hanoi, I've become somewhat of a regular at various places in the city. In addition to my good friends like Ngat and Da, Hanoi is full of acquaintances. My morning run always includes waving and 'good morning's and smiles at familiar faces, the cleaning lady at my guesthouse has hugged me goodbye a few times already, and workers at various cafes have wished me good luck. I hope I can return next summer to see my frieds, meet new ones, and kick my Vietnamese language skills into second gear.

Tomorrow I'm off accorss the Pacific again. And I can't wait to rock Yosemite.

Food Storm!

What can I say about life in Hué? For one thing, I bought and read Alice in Wonderland while I've been here, so I'll try not to make that influence my blog writing too much. Hue is a wonderland in its own right - of cultural heritage and excellent food...like Asian Rome (motorbikes included)! At some point along the way, a king here had very particular culinary tastes, so we can all thank him for Hue's specialities: fried Bread filled with creamy egg and tofu, fresh springrolls with plenty of mint, and banana leaves filled with what I can only describe as a shrimp tamale - to name just a few.

When I was cycling around the citadel a few days ago I met a family (they were all on a motorbike). So, next thing I know I'm having dinner with the whole family, including gramma and grampa, and headed to the beach the following day. The beach was amazing, and the people we met there were hilarious, friendly, and very giving with their seafood picnic. After our swim break we all took turns singing. What a fun fourth of July!

Tomorrow I'm heading to Quang Tri for the day to meet someone from the Forest Protection department. He works at the field office for the BCI project, so hopefully I'll get all sorts of good info about conservation in Vietnam (or the lack there of). Meanwhile, I'll keep eating!

Road Ugly

For y'all that don't know, the Car Talk guys had a caller one time that discussed the phenomonon of "road ugliness". It occurs to women when they are travelling in a car (or bus) for four or more hours. Let me tell you this: taking an overnight bus will made me road ugly (see photo). Smelly? Check. Mossy mouth? Check. Shiny face? Check. Frizzy hair? Check. Hilarious experience? Absolutely! Since I was taking this overnight bus in the practical, and opportunistic country of Vietnam, the bus driver sold the spaces on the floor as well as all the sleeper compartments. Therefore, if one has to use the squat-toilet bathroom in the middle of the night...one must monkey around the sleeping bodies, shoes in one hand, toilet paper in the other hand, plastic bag in the pocket, and headlamp on the head. I think I deserve a glory point for not waking anyone up or falling over in the bathroom! Once dawn lighted some of the scenery out our windows, we all had awonderful view of the bright green rice paddies, meandering rivers, and distant moutnains. Its nice to be out of the big city!

I've taken several lengthy showers and now am spending the week in the ancient city of Hue. The biking here easy, flat and cheap. Just $1/day to rent...but quite sweaty!